Torta di tagliarini for The Second Duchess

As soon as I spotted The Second Duchess by Elizabeth Loupas and read on the back cover that it is set in Ferrara, I wanted to read it. My husband is a Ferrarese, and Ferrara's history is fascinating. This novel is set in Renaissance Italy and tells the story of Barbara of Austria, the second wife of Alfonso d'Este, Duke of Ferrara. Both he and his first wife Lucrezia de' Medici have been immortalised in Browning's poem My Last Duchess. The books has a riveting plot, and this was a part of the history of Ferrara I was unfamiliar with.
Barbara of Austria arrives to Ferrara as the eponymous second duchess with a great pomp. But her entry in town is marred by the undisguised threats of poison and the gossip about the first wife, who was said to be murdered by the Duke. Barbara might be plain looking, but she is intelligent and determined to find the truth. Murder, court intrigues and conspiracies - all the ingredients for those who love their doze of escapism, like I do.
There were also quite a few food references.
"...This tart is delicious, and like nothing I have ever tasted before".
"It is called a torta di tagliarini, for the sweet pasta in the filling". He smiled, "It was created for the wedding feast of my grandfather and his second wife, Lucrezia Borgia, in homage to the bride's magnificent golden hair..."

When Barbara visits the Abbess, she is served some wine and a slice of pampepato.
"She nodded, put a whole slice of cake into her mouth, and wiped her fingers daintily on a napkin. Abbess or not, clearly she did not practise austerities of the flesh".
Pampepato was mentioned several times through the novel.
"Music swirled softly through the room; the courtiers whispered and laughed. The servitors presented sweet wines and slices of pampepato, the dense cake rich with cinnamon, cloves, citron and pepper. It was the same sort of cake Mother Eleonora had offered me at the Monastero del Corpus Domini. I picked my piece into small bits; it seemed too highly spied, too cloying..." What Barabara forgets to mention that this is a chocolate cake, in fact this was the first chocolate cake in Europe, cooked in honour of the Pope (hence the name, which translates as the bread of the Pope).
I have a recipe for pampepato on my blog, if you are interested.
Barbara also reminisces about the rice pudding of her childhood:
"I was a child again, seven or eight years... My nurse was making the milchreis, rice pudding, my favourite supper. Thump-thump-thump went the wooden spoon in the pan as she stirred it and stirred it. Each stroke made a thick wet swishing sound. Milk and rice and eggs and sugar, and then the reddish-brown dusting of cinnamon..."

I was tempted to cook milchreis, and I might still do one day, but what I really fancied was to cook a torta di tagliarini. I have seen this cake in the Italian pastry shops, sold as individual-sized cakes.
For the original authentic recipe you need to make your own pasta and pastry.
My version is very much simplified. I used a ready-made block of pastry and fresh pasta.

Torta di tagliarini
Ingredients:
1 block of dessert pastry (not the whole amount, about 350g)
2 medium eggs
100g caster sugar
100g ground almonds
3 tbsp cocoa
50g melted butter
150g candied orange and lemon peel, cubed
1 tub of Milkybar dessert (70g) or 70ml double cream
80g fresh pasta

Roll the block of pastry with a rolling pin to 5mm thickness on the parchment paper and move over to the spring cake tin. It will be the base of your cake. Even the surface with the fingers.
In a medium bowl beat the eggs with the sugar, add the almonds, cocoa and melted butter, and mix well. Add the chopped orange and lemon peel and 1 tub of Milkybar. It was supposed to be the double cream, but I forgot to buy it, and the only possible candidate for a replacement that I could find in the fridge was the Milkybar dessert.
Put 2/3 of fresh pasta like tagliarini or tagliatelli at the bottom of your cake, pour the cocoa and fruit mixture over the pasta. Place the remaining pasta on top and slightly flatten, it should not all be immersed in the cocoa mix, as you want the crunchy texture on top once the cake is cooked.

steps: 1. place the pasta at the bottom; 2. pasta over the cocoa mix

Place a buttered parchment paper circle on top of the cake, and bake for 30+ minutes at 190C.

Serve warm, with or without cream. A cup of coffee wouldn't go amiss.

This cake has an interesting history and an intriguing texture, from the crunchy pasta on top to the creamy almond and cocoa filling.

I know I am abysmally or fashionably late with ReadCookEat linky for May, so I will run it until the end of June.

Have you read a book recently which inspired you to run to the kitchen and cook to your heart's content?

Are you an avid reader who enjoys food references in fiction? Would you like to recreate a meal, inspired by a book you've just finished and join in our #ReadCookEat challenge.

The idea is to choose a book, either a world classic or modern fiction, or even memoirs and pick up a dish mentioned or described in that book and then recreate it in a recipe. Please say a few lines about your chosen book, and maybe even do a quote from the book.

If you decide to take part, please add the badge to your post and link up back to Chris and me, and either use a link-up tool or add the url of your post as a comment. Alternatively, email me with the link to your post (my email is sasha1703 at yahoo dot com).

I will Pin all blogs posts taking part in this challenge, as well as RT and Google+

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Christmas lunch in Ferrara

Have you ever wondered what the Italians eat for Christmas? There is no universal menu throughout the country, as of course the Italian cuisine is very regional. And even in one region there might be differences in what is cooked and how. A few years ago when Taste Italia run an article on the food of Emilia Romagna, and featured Ferrara, I read it and asked my husband "How come I never tried any eel dishes in Ferrara? This article says it is a typical dish in your town". He was quite aghast and said that the eels are eaten in Comacchio, which is the southern part of the province. And being a townie, he obviously doesn't eat it.

As you know, we spent the last Christmas in Ferrara, and my mother-in-law was preparing our Christmas meal. I asked her if she wouldn't mind me taking some photos during the lunch.



So, the typical Ferrarese Christmas lunch is quite set. There are a few deviations, but you can bet that the first course would be Pasta in brodo, either meat-filled tortellini or cappelletti.
The brodo or broth is cooked for several hours the day before. It is a whole ceremony. At certain intervals different cuts of different meats are added to the broth, with vegetables and herbs. It is simmering for hours on the stove, and the aroma is simply fantastic.
I remember when my husband's Nonna was still aive, she was in charge of cooking the broth.
The Ferrarese appreciate the intricacies of making the proper broth for Christmas, none of that shop-bought nonsense, or heaven forbid, a broth from a stock cube or powder (they use the stock cubes, of course, but for casual meals).
While my mother-in-law doesn't make her own pasta, she buys it from the small local shops which sell homemade pasta of all sorts.

Tortellini in brodo

The meat from the broth is later served with the other meat dishes. The cold cuts are very tasty with the Italian mostarda di frutta, which could be either whole candied pieces of fruit in transparent mustard syrup, or a jam-style variety of fruit puree mixed with mustard.
This year we tried a fig mostarda, and it was delicious. The platter with cold cuts also had a dish of rolled chicken meat stuffed with chard.

Most Ferrarese (those who are meat-eaters) would also serve a salama da sugo. This pork sausage is the speciality of Ferrara. Its recipe goes back to the Renaissance times, when Ferrara was a mighty dukedom, ruled by the House of Este. It is made with a mix of pork neck and pancetta, lard, liver and tongue, all ground and seasoned with salt, pepper, red wine and spices (cloves and cinnamon). The meat of the olden days was heavily spiced to keep the whiff away. Then the mix is stuffed inside the pork casing and left to age for up to nine months.
And again, I remember how my husband's Nonna would cook it the traditional way, i.e. on a contraption of wooden spoons over a pot of boiling water. The sausage should not touch the water, and is cooked by the steam.
This spicy, strongly-flavoured meat is served with the mashed potatoes.
Being married to a Ferrarese, I had a chance to try this local delicacy quite a few times. Let me tell you, it is an acquired taste, and has been wasted on me. I can only manage a teeny-weeny piece. You probably need to learn to love it with the milk of your mother.

It is also often eaten with mashed pumpkins and coppia, the bread from Ferrara.

coppia

Another dish often served at Christmas and new year's eve is a plate of lentils, as it is supposed to bring good luck and money.

There were more side dishes of vegetables and greens, like rocket leaves.
The whole dish couldn't be further away from the British turkey/ham/beef with roast potatoes, carrots, brussels sprouts etc etc.

We finished the meal with a chocolate cake tenerina. This rich, decadent cake is made from dark chocolate. It has only a tiny amount of flour. The centre is very soft and moist. This is a delightful cake.

tenerina

There was also a choice of a panettone and a pandoro, and a selection of fresh fruit and nuts.

Our only contribution to the Christmas lunch was a box of crackers which on Eddie's request we brought with us from the UK. Eddie was the only one who appreciated the jokes inside the crackers.

If you've done posts about your Christmas meals, whether you cooked it yourself or like me, were a guest, please share with me. I'd be delighted to read what you had for Christmas lunch/dinner.
This is a one-off linky which will end on 31 January 2015. There is no badge and no request to link back to me, I'm just curious to read what you enjoyed for Christmas.

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One latte, two lattes, three... who counts anyway?!

I can see why the Italians worship their coffee, as it's simply marvellous. As customary, they prefer a very strong mini-cup of espresso, which is black and thick, and tastes almost like fuel. In a way, it is a fuel which keeps them going through the day.
Last week, when I happened to pop in the local cafe with my mother in law, she was chatting to the cafe owner Franca, who insisted on offering us a cup of coffee. Franca served us with two small cups of espresso and a bowl of sugar packets. No milk, milk is for wimps. I didn't want to offend an old lady, and drank it neat. Oh boy, it was so strong, my head almost exploded.
I could have danced through the night with all that energy. "I could have danced all night..."
But that was the only day when I had a neat espresso, most of the week I treated myself to cup of caffe latte.
We love a couple of cafes in the town centre, and would visit them mid-morning for a quick cuppa and some pastries.

Eddie basked in all the attention pretty Italian waitresses showered on him, he would cheerfully chirp "Ciao" when they called him tesoro or carino.

Sasha, on the other hand, was pretty annoyed with the Italian language. When you world is confusing as it is, to be among the people whose language is so different and incomprehensible to him, triggered his anxiety even more. He would retreat to the familiarity of the iphone and look at the photos of home and familiar objects.

Me, I was content, as long as Sasha was quiet.

Eddie and I in Centro Storico, Ferrara

The local baristas in our home town have mastered the art of making coffee, but still the Italian caffe latte is on a different level of quality and taste.

Latte at Leon d'Oro, the best in the Universe

And the pastries are to die for as well. The choice is amazing. The cakes would tempt a saint, and I am certainly not a saint.
I swear my waist expanded from just looking at all those wonderful cakes and bakes.

Cakes at Centro Storico

Actually we only looked at the cakes, as there were cakes aplenty at home. I only sighed at the sight of Sacher Torte, which is probably my top favourite cake of all times. I don't know if the Italians do a proper version of this Austrian decadent treat, as I never found out.

Cakes at Centro Storico

I have already sang songs of praise to Leon d'Oro in the past. It used to be Sasha's favourite cafe in town. As I said before, it occupies the most enviable position in town, just opposite the Cathedral. If I was doing a latte-o-meter of all the lattes I had in my life, Leon d'Oro's would be no.1.

Leon d'Oro

And the pastries are delightful. Brioches of all sizes, filled in with custard-style cream, chocolate or my favourite hazelnut cream - nocciola, call to you "Eat me!" And how could you resist?!

Centro Storico is not very far from the Cathedral as well, in the very centre, as the name suggests. Decent coffee and pastries are a welcome treat, when you are sight-seeing or shopping.

I absolutely love the way the Italians serve caffe latte. They bring you a glass or cup of hot frothy milk and a small jug with hot espresso, which you add to milk - as much or as little as you like, and that is how it should be.

My only criticism regarding the prices is that a glass of milk costs the same as a cup of caffe latte or a cappuccino. Eddie wanted to have a glass of milk with his muffin or pastry, and honestly, does it take the same effort to pour a glass of cold milk as it is to make a cup of coffee? I don't think so.
If you are visiting Ferrara, don't forget to have a latte in Leon d'Oro or Centro Storico, and have a pastry or two. That's la dolce vita.

Have you been out and about this month? If you have a review of eating out or visiting a place of interest, please come and join in Out & About linky hosted by Alison from Dragons and Fairy Dust and me.

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Mini pampepato

Pampepato, a spiced chocolate cake, is a speciality of Ferrara. It was first mentioned in the documents dating back to the 15C. The original cake was created by Cristoforo da Messisbugo, a celebrity chef of his times. The Ferrarese claim this was the first chocolate cake produced in Europe. The name Pampepato means the bread of the Pope, and was a chef's tribute to the Pope. There is another Italian cake called Panpepato (or peppered bread) which is a completely different cake.

Every Christmas we spent in Ferrara, Italy, with my husband's family, we would have a slice of this rich spicy chocolate fruit cake at the end of the meal. It is very rich, so you only need a small piece. I love the local Christmas markets which sell Pampepato in different sizes, from big shiny domes to mini-cakes, that are like thick biscuits.

Pampepato di Ferrara (makes 1 big or 12-14 small cakes)
Ingredients:
200g flour (preferably Italian 00 type)
100g caster sugar
3tbsp runny honey
100g whole almonds
100g chopped candied orange and lemon peel
100g cocoa (not the hot chocolate mix)
1tsp ground cinnamon
1tsp ground cloves
120ml milk, warmed
200-300g dark chocolate (depends on the quantity of cakes you make)

In a big mixing bowl mix together the flour, caster sugar, spices and candied fruit. Add the cocoa, almonds, honey and warm milk (a little at a time). Stir well together.
Using hands, work the cake dough to shape a big ball. Flatten the ball and shape it as a dome.
If you are making mini-cakes, roll the dough into small balls and also flatten them to resemble domes.
Place the cakes onto the tray, which has been covered with the slightly oiled foil.
Bake at 180C for 15-25 minutes (less time for mini-cakes, longer if you bake one cake).
Ideally the cake should rest in a cool place for 10 days before being covered with the chocolate icing.

For the icing, melt the chocolate over a boiling water and dip the mini-cakes in the melted chocolate or drizzle it over the big cake. The chocolate has to set before you can cut the cake.
Use the dark, bittersweet chocolate for the authentic flavour.
The cake will keep well for a couple of weeks.

Decorate with the writing icing (optional).

I had a bit of a disaster with this batch. I managed to burn the chocolate icing, as I answered the phone and forgot all about it, by the time I got to the kitchen, I had crispy coals in a pan. Had to buy more chocolate for the icing.

I Ferraresi e Tutti I Gatti

Ferrara, my husband's hometown, is truly a Renaissance gem. Some people call it one of Italy's best kept secrets, and I can see why. Most of the tourists from the UK travel to the well known places like Venice, Florence, Milan or Rome, they might visit the Lake Como, would have definitely heard of Pisa, the Amalfi coast, but mention Ferrara, and most Brits don't have a clue. It is situated 50km away from Bologna, and is a real must if you're interested in art and history. I have visited this stunning Italian town many times, and every time I discover something new. And now that our kids are growing up, I am rediscovering this place and looking at it anew.

Castello Estense (construction started in 1385)

Castello Estense (above) is probably the most iconic image of the town. We admired its bastions and moat every day during our sightseeing walks in town with the kids. Eddie called it "Windy Castle" (after Peppa Pig's castle, of course) and insisted on going through the main courtyard every time we walked in the centre. He doesn't associate it with any dramatic events and horror stories, yet as any castle or palace in history, it has its own share of gruesome stories.

One of these stories is a tragic love affair. Even today if you go down a steep narrow stairway, you can visit the cell that held the sad lovers Ugo and Parisina. Parisina Malatesta was the second wife of Marquis Niccolo III, who was much older than her. After seven years of marriage to the old rake, she fell in love with her stepson Ugo, and he was smitten with her as well. Their love affair was discovered, and two young lovers were beheaded on the orders of the Marquis. It happened in 1425. She was 20 years old, and Ugo was 19. Can you imagine to be married at 13 to an old goat? Cruel times.

Then there is a majestic Cathedral, or Il Duomo, consecrated in 1135. It is dedicated to St George, the patron saint of Ferrara. There are a couple of statues of Savonarola, the passionate Dominican friar. It seems that the Ferraresi are proud of their son. But I always feel uncomfortable, looking at his images, when I think that this radical and campaigner for moral purity was responsible for so many crimes against art.

Whenever we visit, my guys admire the lions and gryphons nearby Il Duomo, and here is Eddie the conqueror atop one of the lions. My husband says many generations of kids in Ferrara sat on those old sculptures, and he himself remembers climbing on them fondly.

It was a warm week in Ferrara. We escaped the storms and floods of the British weather during the midterm break and enjoyed the milder climes of the Northern Italy.

Old cloisters with the fountains

Outside Palazzo Diamante

Wander through the narrow streets of the old town behind the Duomo, and get lost in time. Some parts of the town look exactly the same as they were many centuries ago. They have hardly changed at all.

Peekaboo in the cloisters

Pensive boy

I love our walks and discoveries. There are so many beautiful houses and streets, some of them might be deceptively plain outside and look like a museum inside. On the last day of our stay in Ferrara, as we were leaving the house to go for a walk, an elderly neighbour invited us over to her garden to look at her tortoises. The entrance hall with its Renaissance high ceiling and frescoes on the walls would make any small museum proud, and yet, they keep bikes in the hall, as if it's the most natural thing to do.

One of the many palaces in Ferrara

My in-laws also have some incredibly beautiful interior details like this ceiling in the entrance hall. That's what I love about the old houses, they make me think of who lived there and what stories it could tell.

P.S. My blog title "I Ferraresi e Tutti i Gatti" means The Ferraresi and all the cats (reference to many cats in town, and to our in-laws' collection of cats.).